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The older pictures on these pages were taken with an Olympus C 750 in the original Olympus underwater casing PT 018.

Canon G11
In 2010 I upgraded to the Canon G11 in the Ikelite housing.

Canon produce their own housing, not as expensive at the Ikelite, but it got some bad reviews on Amazon.
Ikelite Housing

For general advice on how to take good pictures underwater, I refer to the excellent book "The Underwater Photographer" by Martin Edge, which gave me a lot of inspiration. Unfortunately, the book is too old to cover digital underwater photography.

The advent of relatively inexpensive digital cameras, and underwater casings, made underwater photography available to the masses who couldn't afford a Nikonos. What's more, with a digital camera, you are not confined to a maximum of 36 shots before you have to surface and change film. With a good memory card, you could theoretically take thousands of high quality images before you need to surface, but I have never managed to take more than 75 photos in one dive. Just remember always to start the dive with fully charged batteries and a memory card with sufficient free memory.

The main problem with most cheaper digital cameras is the limited power of the flash. The Ikelite casing does allow for connection to an external flash, but I am yet to get there. I usually set the colour scheme to "underwater" which should enhance red and reduce green, but the results are not impressive.

Digital photography, however, offers the possibility of correcting the colours subsequently on your computer. The four photos below show what can be done.

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No flash.Internal flash used.Colours adjusted.Picture cropped.

And another example of the effect of colour adjustment done in Microsoft Photo Editor:
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Before adjustment.After adjustment.
And one example of fixing an unwanted detail in Adobe Photoshop:
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Before fixing.After fixing.